Buttonhole-sewing machine



g E. J. RAY

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINEA Filed Sept. 16. 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet l Aug. 9,1927.

` 1,638,785 E. J. RAY

BUTToNHoLE'sEwING MACHINE Filed Sept. 16, 1920 2 SheetS-Sheet 2 i5 V .acts on both thestay cord and on the coinl cases where itis'desirable to sever -and'hold` d vPatented ug. 9,V 1927. i

f Y mingniechanisrn for. that typ/e of sewin'g'inavl Ohifnes commonly used for' sewingl button#V EUGENE ai. RAY, .or BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, SST'GNOHRTO UNITED SHoEjfiviAiY ,OINRRY ooRroRArroN, or PATRRsoN, New JERSEY, A CORPORATION "or NEW i JERSEY.

VRirrrrONHOLR-slavi/'rive VM'ACRINR.

I-The invention relates `tofstay cord'triiii-l holes orv similar. short seams.A

Buttonhole sewing iiiachines of the type to which v the invention inore` particularly I applicable comprisean'npper threadinech'- `anisin and an under thread n'ieeliai'iisni pro-V fvid'ed with ineans forguiding astayco'rd into position to be coveredfbythe oversearn.

The'devicesfwhich have heretofore been pro- .vided fortriinniiiigthestajfcordat the coinpletionofeaehjseani:have not proved satisactoiyglargely because the same severing or. the saine severing and holding device paratively` 'finefupper 'and' under threads which at the completion 'of the' sewing :lead froni'the work to the under thread mecha- Y'nisin and are closely associated v'with the cord. Thev presence` of the comparatively flarge cord renders the graspo'f. the holding device on the line threads uncertainfand re.- sults in frequent VfailureA to properly lhold zthe 'under thread lat the Abeginning4 of the seam. Incase no vprovision is inadeffor holdingtlie under thread asuicient length of such thread must fbe, drawni through the needle eye before the Cord andthreadare severed to insure the proper concatenation `of lthe' threads at the beginning of the next sea-in; vThis results in a loiigloose end of Vis' objectionable. n

thread at'the beginning of the' seainwhich The present invention vavoids :fthe above' 'objections by the provisionof asta'ycord severing devicewhioh'acts onl7 on the stay .cord .and which leaves itsl supply end free and in position to-be covered by theinitial stitches fot the succeeding overseam. In

the junder. lthread,1 as well as `to sever. the

staycord as, for instance, in sewingV button# holes in clothing,the cordysevering ydevice *Y 'may be combined with additional severing The various features ofthe will beiunderstood from Van inspection of ,the aecoinpan'ving drawings l'and the following detailed description ofy the; mechanism r illustrated,therein.r *n

vation;"Fig. 3 is` a' detail plan view of Cord. @11d f llld severing devices 5, "Figljt STT a sectional ydetail 'substantially Online fand` Fig. f6 Fig. '5. I

n o Y l u Y n o u c L" 7 u n; i Fig? .3; Fig;5 isa view similar to Fignyn i Fshowing partsv r in a Vvdifferent posi-tion,

is a sectional ,view on line'fxb.l

. 'In' i the drawings l Ytlzieff` invention i. applied 'to the buttonli'ole sewing'niaoliine' i shown and described-in Patent No. `1,063,880,

dated June I3, 1913.` The sti-tch" forn'iing Ainechanisijn of'this machine Vcomprises an y upperneedleQ, an uiidefrneedle 4; and 'a' i .looper 6. The under needle an'd-looper'are mount-eden ya turret 8,1which also carries` the throat p'latevl'O provided with the usual hole for the passage ofthe needles rand'witl'i the'usual guide for the staycord. The work clamp comprises the worlrsiipporting plates 12 and lll'pmounted on the clamp carriage 1 6, and the `vertically.'movable'clariiplarrns 18 inountedlfon the platesl` and'fvcarrying yfthe @clamping jaws 20. Thejclainpfcarriage.is

moved from cutting to sewing position loe-j fore the sewing starts, is linoved duringftlie lsewingto feed the worknand isinoved` backV Vfrom sewing Yto 'cuttingposition after-the sewing is completed, andthe stitch forining i' v mechanism is rotated during'tlie sewing as ,f

fully" described in said patent.

At the completion of a'buttonhole the up.-v

per .thread inav be cut and Aheld,abovethe worlrby the thread cutter and holderwof i .i PateneNo; 1,094,896, daiedjfiiprfiies, 192A` lealng a Waste ,10015 0fV L@1061''needle thread i i whichfexte'nds from themend of thesemn.v for? ward `over` the throat plate anddownaround leads from the vend of theseain forwardover iheiooper, "The unaeaneiie thread aise 'E leads from the end of the seam forward over.,V thetliroatlplatenanddownfto the lunder nee-f Y loo the throat plate'and'down Vtl'irough'theico'rd l guiaewiiieh iss@ ieaieoiinfheihmat parte 105 that 'it is somewhat urtherfforwadthan the edgeof the hole' over' which the threads vpass. "Thepoint at'which the vcord entersl '7" the `throat plate, is, therefor e, slightly sep'- r l Varated from the point at which the threads Venterand this vistaken advantage 4of4 ink separately severing the cord and leaving its end to be covered by Vtheaicce-eding seain. The cord isseparated froml the threads 'fand'lseveredninthe'constnucti'on shown by a cutter bar 22VV provided at its forward end with' a separator point or finger 24 arranged to pass over the throat plate andbetween the cord and threads.

afcutter platel 2 8 secured to the work plate 1 2.. -Theedgeof the cutter plateis so lo- Y catedlin relation -vto..the cord guide infthe throat plate thata free endof cord is left projectinginto positionrto be .covered by the initial' stitches'ojf. the succeedingv seam. A'I he cordrnay be thus severed. without affecting.

' f theu'nder thread, which. may lead from but Ycooperates, with. the plate 34. to -sever thev .threads close to theunder side of the work.-k The thread holder plate 32 and cordV cutter vplate V28v are preferablyv formed as a single ter 'bar 22 .with a second.y hookgSO arranged to collect the threads andV draw them laterallyoverr a holding plate 32` and theny against a :cutter plate T he'hoolr() lcooperates with'theplate 82- to clamp the threads and plate, asshown.: The edge of, the plate is VV Vrounded.' where it underlies the hoek 30 so preferably notchedl ask at 3.6

itwill lnotA sever vthef threads, and isY also threads under the hook.V Thefcutter bar is guided means of a slide 40, which is cylindrical in crossk section and, is mountedina boss 42 at the vouter edge of the plate.V The slide 4' is connected withl thecutter bar through a i' pinion 44 lengaged by a rack 46 on the bar and bya rack 48 secured tothe slide. y'The slide is forced by a spring 50in a direction to Vhold its forward Vend .',against a stop 52 `sefvzuredtofthe plate 38 as, indicatedinFig. 1.

Then the `Slide is i-.nthispositionthe cutter bar, is in its retracted Vposition withthe hook A 2'6overlying' the cutter plate 28 andA withv thehoek 30 overlying the holder plate 32.

. The. pQsitiQn of the'pa'rts at the-beginning' i of a' butto nhole making v.cycle is indicated sin: Figs-` 1,5. rand (i. Aft'the vegildof the previous Cyclethe Corti. was serered and 'the underthreadas well as the loep of upper thread. iras-Severed, and. the underthread is 'now heldbetween the finger 30. and plate 32. Y At the beginning of thev buttonhole making cycle thefbuttonhele slit'is cut and 'the clamp carriage is moved forwardl te bring the be? The cord is di-v krected. by Vthefinger into the 'throat of a .hook 26 'on the cutter ban which carries jthecord. laterally against the sharp .edge of.

to retain. the:

inLaplateBS se- "cured to the workplate.12and. is'operated by tonhole into sewing' position and then the After the Y initial stitches ofthe seam have been formed t the forward end of the slide 42`engages a sewing mechanism is' started.

finger 54 which is adjustably securedltothe base plate of' the machine and duringthe continued forward movement of thefclainp carriage the slide 42 is pressed rearward with yrelation tothe clamp carriage and plate 38, and advances the cutter bar into the position indicated inlig. 3, thus carrying thev thread and cord engaging hooks tothe opposite side of the openings in thethroat plate. The cutter bar is held in this posi- *tion against the forcel of .the spring 50' by a .latehing pawl 56 arranged to engage a notch @58 1n the side of the slide., The latchcontinues to holdv the slide and cutter bar Iagainstthe pressure off the spring 50 until Vthefbuttonhole has been completedand until the` clamp carria ,3e` has nearly completed its rearward movementfrom sewing to buttonhole cutting position. Immediately aft-er the vwork clamp hasbeen ope'nedtofrelease the work Vthe rearward movementfof the clamp'carriage brings vthe tail ofthe pawl 56 against an adjustable stop 59.` so that the .i

' pawl is disengaged from the slide 4 0;Y The spring 50 acts to quickly retract the cutter bar so that Athe hooks 26 and 30 engage the cordv and threads close to the under side" of the work Vand drawv them together with the.. `v

work laterallyuntil the vcord engages. the

edge of the cutter plateA 2 8 and is severed,` while the threadsv are carried between the plates 32 and 34 and .are 'severed' and held as indicated. in Figs. 5. and 6.' The end of t the under thread, as well as arwaste loop'of upper thread, is .held by the'hook 30 and plate 32, until after the beginning.. of the next sewing operation, whenl they are Vreleased by the forward movement of thecut-k ter bar in resetting it yfor its next cutting and holding operation. f l i vVhile. it is preferred to .employ the specific construction shown and described,"par ti'cularly vin applying the-invention tothe machine of the patent' above referred to, it will Vbe understood that" this construction land arrangement is not essential to. the

ioni

broader featuresfof the invention vand may v f thread' mechanism.

l2, A sewing machine having,"in combinal Tbe varied or modified as found desirableor f tion, overseam` sewing mechanism! colnl'OlrS.-y v ing upper and under thread mechanisms and Vmeans for delivering a staylcordto the" thread mechanism'tomove `in the"dir ection 'V of the movement of 'the'fcord through the f under side of the worlr'to be covered-bythe "'ovei'seaiii, a cord severing dev-ice acting only on vthe cord between the-.worlfandtheunder thread mechanism, and devices tor severing the under thread `belowl the? work. l

3.' A sewing-machine -having,1in combination, overseam sewing mechanismv comprising upper'aiid und-er thread lmechanisms and lmeans icr'delivering a stay cord toy the Y under side of the 'work to be covered bythe overseam, a cord severing` 'device acting only on thecord between the work and the under vthread mechanism, and devices for severing vandh'olding Vthe funder thread below 4the '4.- A sewing machinehaving, incoinbiiiation,-foverseam l sewing mechanism 'comprisc ing upper and-under -thread'mechanisms`,.a

throat plate and means for'delivering a stay cord to 'the '-under side of the work to be covered by the overseam, a cordsevering `dev-i'ce actingto severithe coi'df'alone between the ythroatV plate and work, andV to'V leave a by theinitial seam. 1,

f 5. A sewing'machine having, inA com'biiiaii'ee' projecting end in position; to be' covered stitches of thesucceeding overtion, overseam' sewing mechanism comprisiiigfupper and under tl'iread V mechanism, a

throat plateand-mfeans lfor delivering a stay Yf'cord to4 theunder side of the work to be covered bythe overseam, devices for sever'- ing and for holdingthe under threadbe-v tweenl the 'throatplate and work, and deivicesitor severing the cord between .the throat plate and work, and leavinga freey projectingend in position to `becovered by initial stitches of the succeeding overseam.

6. A sewing machine having, in 'combination, overseain sewingVV mechanism compr-ising `upper and under thread mechanism, a

4; i stay cord to the under sidejof the work to be lcovered by the overseam, and a' cord throat plate and means A:tor delivering v a severing device arranged yto sever the cord 'between the throat plate andthe workvand separating theA Y.cord from Vthe under thread.

provided with means for 7. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, means for delivering a staycord to be cov- "ered by the seam', work holding means coinprising a work supporting plate.g and a cord cutting device mounted on the plate and acting at the completion of the seam to cut the cord alone and leave a free projecting end in positiongto becovered bythe initial stitches of the succeeding seam."

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having,

f in combination, stitch forming mechanism including upper and under thread mechanisms, a guide for delivering` a stay cord to the lunder 'Aside of the kworkfto fbe `covered by tlie'1overseam,' a 'cord engaging v.device mountedV betweeirthework y'fand"'under l guide, means fior actuatingv the c'ordgen'gaging device-atthefend ot'the sewing, means for' severing -thesgordj and,

x 9.'A A'buttonholel sewing .machine having, M

in combi-nation, stitch forming, mechanism including upper and-.underjgthread mechanism's,- a work-supporting plate, av Vcutter `bar mounted'. on lthe plate and provid-ed with a cord* engaging throat, a thread yengaging throat]'andV fa separatorpo'int'between the throats,g =a"cutter plate 'belowsthe bar coop-` eratingiwith the' cord throat, :and acutter plate above thebar cooperatingfwiththe A-tliread throat. f' V Y v including upper andfuiiderrthread mechain combination, stitch! .forming mechanism cordfengagiiig throat, a! thread Yengaging throats, laf cutter pl'atef 'below' the bari cov\mountedoirtheplatel and provided with va operaftingfwith '"thefcordthroat, a holder nisms,v a work supporting' \plate,}5 a bar mounted to slide on theplate andpifovided n with two hooks for engaging'thethread and c cord respectively, and plates seoured'to the work plate cooperating v with one, hook in severing the cord and with the other hook in severing and holding the thread j leading,y

Vfrom the workfto the under thread mechanism.` i Y, v. ,r

12.V A buttonhole sewing machine having, Y

in combination, stitch formingmechan'ism including upper and under thread mechanism,a main frame, 4a work clampcarriage Vmovable with `relation to the frame provided @with work supporting plates, thread trimming mechanism on oneof the plates, a spring for actuating the mechanism,means operated bythe travel of the carriage for setting the vmechanism during the sewing, f

Zand means operated bythe travel of the carriage for releasing said mechanism at the completion yof the sewing.

13. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism includingi upper and under thread mechanisms, a throat plate, means orrdelivering a. Y

stay cord to be covered by the overseam, a work clamp carriage movable lengthwise of the buttonhole,a,worlr supporting. plate on the carriage, a cutter barl mounted on thek plate and providedwiththread and cord enf gaging throats,=cutting and .holding plates lthe side of the throat plate opposite-fte the cutting and holding plates, andy means for rmoving the bar in V`the opposite direction i after the completion of the sewing.z

,11i-L A buttonholefs'ewing machine having,y

inr combination, a stitch forming mechanism comprising upper and under thread mecha, nism,1a throat Vplate and means for del1vera cutter bar mounted tol slideon theplate,

ing a stay cord to the under side of the work to be covered'by the overseam,;a clamp carriage comprising a` work supporting plate,

i cutting and holding plates arranged'to cooperatewith the bar, a slide carried by the v. work plate and connected Y,tol ,advan'cefand retract the bar, a-spring yfor kcireing the slidezin one direction, a lixedstop-tor Inovingl the slide i-nzthe opposite directionl dur-V Y ing' the travel of the clampA carriage, ka latch Y soY Y .Vi-'verse guide' on'theuppeiysideofthe work p `(plateinwhich,the lbar slides, aghool; on the Y,

l vfor holding the'slidevin retractedwposition,

and a stop for releasing thefslde'` as the clamp `carriage completes its travel.

f'15; 'Ak sewing machine having, in v,combination,fsttch formingk mechanism including upperv andfunder thread mechanism, a

throat plate, a work plate, a cutter baron the'upper sidev of jthework plate, a trans- `bar arranged to be carried laterally across the throatl plate by the reciprocation or' the bar, andacutter platel on the worl; plate o ver which said hook passes.v A'

16..,A sewing machine having, in c0rnbination, y( )verseain'` sewing mechanism comprising v upper and under thread mecha-r nisms, a throatplate provided with a guide for delivering a stay'cord to the under side of the work to be covered bythe overseam, devices forv engaging ythe cord and thread between the worlrand throat plate mounted to move in the direction of movement of the cord through the guide, and devices for severing the cord-and thread.

17. A buttonhole sewing machine having,

in combination, stitch formingmechanism nisms and means for. delivering a stay cord to the under side of the work to vbe covered y by the overseam, a main frame,'a travelling 55 to the frame provided with work sup'portu work clamp carriage movable with relation 5U yincluding upper and under thread mechaing plates, spring actuated devices on one or'V the plates for .severing lthe cord and 'Y threads between the under thread mechanlsni and the work, means 'for setting said devices by the travel of the'worl; carriagev f durlng sewing, a retaining. latch for said ,Y

devices, and. means vrfor'tripp'ing said latch `devices aftervtlie completionof the sewing.

Vbyv the travel of the carriage to release said 

